The short answer
Karat is the share of gold in an alloy, out of 24.
| Karat | Gold content | BIS hallmark | Character |
|---|---|---|---|
| 24K | about 99.5% or more | 995 | Very soft; mainly coins and bars |
| 22K | about 91.6% | 916 | India’s traditional jewellery gold; soft enough to dent and scratch |
| 18K | 75% | 750 | Noticeably harder, so it holds stones and fine shapes better |
More gold means a higher price per gram, a deeper yellow, and less durability. For plain bangles and chains bought partly as savings, 22K is usual. For rings with stones and delicate designs, 18K is the practical choice. Whatever you choose, check the BIS hallmark’s HUID in the BIS Care app.
Our gold jewellery guide covers hallmarks and invoices in general. Here we compare the three karats you will see most often in India, side by side.
What karat measures
A karat (K, or “kt” in Indian shops) is a unit of purity, not weight. Pure gold is 24 karat. An alloy that is 18 parts gold and 6 parts other metals by weight is 18K, which is 75% gold. Fineness expresses the same idea in parts per thousand: 18K is 750, and 22K is 916 on Indian hallmarks.
Do not confuse karat with carat, the unit of gemstone weight (0.2 g). They share a spelling in some countries but measure different things.
Fineness grades used in India
Indian gold hallmarking follows the standard IS 1417. The BIS lists these grades (BIS hallmarking FAQs):
| Karat (as marked) | Fineness (parts per 1,000) | Gold content | Typical use in India |
|---|---|---|---|
| 14K | 585 | 58.5% | Lightweight and diamond jewellery; durable everyday pieces |
| 18K | 750 | 75.0% | Diamond and gem-set jewellery, rings, contemporary designs |
| 20K | 833 | 83.3% | Less common; some traditional pieces |
| 22K | 916 | 91.6% | Traditional jewellery, bangles, chains, bridal sets |
| 23K | 958 | 95.8% | Some traditional and temple pieces |
| 24K (“24KS”) | 995 | 99.5% | Rarely jewellery; the hallmark grade for very high-purity articles |
About the rounding. 22/24 is 91.67%, but the Indian hallmark marks 22K as 916 (91.6%). Bullion coins and bars are often 999 (99.9%), which is outside the jewellery hallmark grades listed above. When people say “24K” in a shop, ask which fineness they mean.
Durability and alloy composition
Pure gold is very soft. Alloying it with silver, copper and sometimes zinc raises its hardness, and the alloy also sets the colour (yellow, rose or white). Technical work on gold alloys gives a sense of the scale (Corti, Santa Fe Symposium, 1999): Our guide to yellow, white and rose gold compares the three colours in detail.
| Gold | Approximate Vickers hardness (HV) | What it means in wear |
|---|---|---|
| Pure 24K (99.0–99.5%), annealed | about 20–30 HV (up to about 50–80 when cold-worked) | Dents and scratches easily; thin parts bend |
| 22K yellow (gold–copper–silver), annealed | about 52 HV (up to about 140 work-hardened) | Durable enough for solid bangles and chains, but scratches, wears and can deform at thin points |
| 18K yellow | higher than 22K | Holds claws, bezels and fine detail far better |
These are indicative laboratory figures. Real pieces vary with the alloy recipe and with how the metal has been worked (hammering and drawing harden it; heating softens it). The direction is consistent: lower karat means harder metal.
Colour
- 24K is a deep, rich yellow.
- 22K is warm yellow, the classic Indian gold colour.
- 18K yellow is a slightly paler yellow.
18K also comes as rose gold (more copper) and white gold. White gold is usually rhodium-plated for a bright white finish, and it is not hallmarked differently.
Gemstone settings: why 18K is usually preferred
A claw (prong) must hold a stone tightly for years while being knocked and rubbed. In soft 22K, claws wear thin and bend more easily, so stones loosen sooner. For that reason, jewellers commonly recommend 18K, or 14K, for diamond and gem-set rings and for delicate settings, and reserve 22K for plain or heavy designs. Our gold jewellery guide also covers gem-set gold jewellery.
| Piece | Suits 22K? | Suits 18K? |
|---|---|---|
| Plain bangles and kadas | Yes; traditional | Yes; harder-wearing |
| Chains | Yes for heavier chains | Better for fine, light chains |
| Plain bands | Yes, but scratches faster | Yes |
| Claw-set stone rings | Possible, but claws need checking often | Preferred |
| Bezel-set stone rings | Workable | Preferred for thin bezels |
| Fine filigree and thin earrings | Can deform | Preferred |
| Coins and bars as savings | 24K (999) bullion | Not applicable |
Price: metal value versus making charges
Jewellery prices in India are built from parts. A typical invoice shows:
- Gross weight of the piece, including stones.
- Net gold weight (gross weight minus stones, beads, enamel and lac).
- Gold rate per gram for that karat. The 22K rate is roughly 91.6% of the 24K rate, and the 18K rate roughly 75%, before any shop differences.
- Gold value = net weight × rate.
- Making charges, as a percentage of the gold value or a fixed amount per gram. These pay for design and labour.
- Stone value, listed separately for each stone.
- Hallmarking charge, where shown.
- Taxes (GST), as applicable.
Two consequences:
- 18K jewellery costs less per gram of jewellery because each gram contains less gold. Making charges for intricate 18K designs can be higher, though, so compare total prices, not rates.
- Making charges are not recovered when you sell. When you sell or exchange gold, you are paid for the gold content (net weight × tested purity × the day’s rate), minus any deductions. See our guide to selling and exchanging old gold.
A worked example (illustrative numbers only)
Suppose the 24K rate on the day is R rupees per gram. A 10.00 g plain 22K chain with no stones contains 10.00 × 0.916 = 9.16 g of fine gold, worth about 9.16 × R. A 10.00 g 18K chain contains 10.00 × 0.750 = 7.50 g, about 7.50 × R. That is about 18% less metal value for the same weight. Making charges are added on top of each, and only the gold content counts when you later sell.
We use a symbol, R, rather than a rupee figure because rates change daily. Use the day’s published rate from your jeweller. Our guide explains why gold rates differ between shops, cities and websites.
The BIS mark and HUID
Since 1 July 2021, a BIS gold hallmark has three marks (BIS hallmarking FAQs):
- The BIS logo.
- The purity, as karat and fineness, for example 22K916 or 18K750.
- A six-character alphanumeric HUID, unique to the item.
Check the HUID in the BIS Care app with “Verify HUID” before you pay. Hallmarking is compulsory for gold jewellery sold in districts covered by the Mandatory Hallmarking Order. The BIS publishes the order and the phase-wise list of districts on the same page.
If a hallmarked article later tests below its marked purity, the BIS consumer-protection page says the buyer is entitled to compensation of two times the difference, calculated on the shortfall in purity and the article’s weight, plus testing charges (BIS consumer protection). You can have jewellery tested at a BIS-recognised Assaying and Hallmarking Centre. The BIS FAQ mentions testing by fire assay (IS 1418) for a fee. Keep your invoice.
Investment myths and liquidity
- “22K jewellery is an investment.” Partly. The gold content holds value with the gold price, but making charges, and often a deduction on resale, are lost. If your main aim is investment, plain coins or bars, or regulated financial gold products, avoid most of those costs; see gold coins vs gold jewellery.
- “24K jewellery is best because it is purest.” For jewellery, it is the least durable. Very little jewellery is made in 24K for that reason.
- “18K is not real gold.” It is real gold alloy, 75% gold, hallmarked as such. It is simply a different purity.
- “Higher karat always resells better.” It resells for more per gram because it contains more gold, but what you receive depends on tested purity and the buyer’s deductions, not on the design.
Daily-wear recommendations
- Rings worn every day: 18K, or 14K for very active hands. Choose 22K only for plain, sturdy bands, and accept that they will scratch.
- Chains: 22K for heavier traditional chains; 18K for fine, light chains that would stretch or kink in softer metal. Construction matters too; see which gold chains and locks last.
- Bangles: 22K is traditional. Choose solid rather than hollow for daily wear, because hollow bangles dent.
- Earrings: either. For screw backs and thin posts, 18K resists bending better.
- Gem-set pieces: 18K, especially for claws and thin bezels.
Decision table
| Your priority | Choose | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Maximum gold content and resale per gram | 22K | High gold share; traditional and widely accepted |
| A gem-set or diamond ring | 18K | Holds stones securely; harder-wearing |
| Delicate, modern designs | 18K | Keeps fine shapes |
| A lower price for the same design weight | 18K | Less gold per gram |
| Saving in gold | 24K (999) coins or bars, or regulated gold products | Minimal making charges |
| A sturdy everyday band | 18K or 22K | 18K for fewer scratches; 22K for traditional colour |
FAQ
Which gold is best for daily wear?
For rings, especially with stones, 18K is the practical choice because it is harder and holds stones better. For plain bangles and heavier chains, 22K works well and is the Indian tradition. Very fine jewellery and thin settings last better in 18K.
Can 24K gold be used in rings?
It can, but it is very soft and dents, scratches and bends easily, so it is rarely used for jewellery and almost never for gem-set rings. High-purity gold is mostly sold as coins and bars.
Why is 18K cheaper than 22K?
Because each gram contains less gold: 75% against about 91.6%. The rest is alloy metal, which costs far less. Making charges can narrow the gap on intricate designs, so compare total prices.
What does a 750 hallmark mean?
750 is the fineness of 18K gold: 750 parts per thousand, or 75% gold. On a BIS hallmark it appears with the karat, for example 18K750, alongside the BIS logo and a six-character HUID.
How do I verify a HUID?
Open the BIS Care app, choose “Verify HUID”, and enter the six-character code from the hallmark. The details shown, such as purity and article type, should match the piece and your invoice.
Is 22K the same as 916 gold?
Yes. 916 is how 22K is expressed on an Indian hallmark: 916 parts per thousand, or 91.6% gold. Sellers often call it “916 gold”.
What happens if hallmarked gold is less pure than marked?
According to BIS, the buyer is entitled to compensation of twice the difference, based on the shortfall in purity and the article’s weight, plus testing charges. Keep your invoice and have the piece tested at a BIS-recognised centre.
Sources
- Bureau of Indian Standards: Hallmarking FAQs, Consumer protection and BIS Care app, checked 9 October 2026.
- Corti, C. W.: Metallurgy of microalloyed 24 carat golds, Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, 1999, for the indicative hardness figures.
Next steps
Read our gold jewellery guide, see how old gold is valued when you sell or exchange, or use our seller evidence checklist.
