The short answer
Gold purity is stated in karats and fineness: 22K is 91.6% gold (916), 18K is 75.0% (750) and 14K is 58.5% (585). In India, hallmarking of gold jewellery is mandatory in notified districts. Since 1 July 2021 a hallmark has three marks: the BIS logo, the purity (for example “22K916”) and a six-character HUID. Check the HUID in the BIS Care app’s “Verify HUID” feature before you pay. Then ask for an invoice showing gross weight, net gold weight, the gold rate and the making charges separately.
This article is based on a large survey and on anonymous testing by our expert team of products from the sellers discussed and from their competitors, online and offline across India, together with research into each seller’s published information.
Karat and fineness
Pure gold is too soft for most jewellery, so it is alloyed with silver, copper, zinc or other metals. India’s standard for gold jewellery (IS 1417) covers six grades (BIS, Hallmarking of gold jewellery and artefacts):
| Purity mark | Gold content | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 24KS995 | 99.5% | Coins, bars; rarely jewellery (too soft) |
| 23K958 | 95.8% | Some traditional jewellery |
| 22K916 | 91.6% | Most traditional Indian gold jewellery |
| 20K833 | 83.3% | Some jewellery |
| 18K750 | 75.0% | Gem-set and diamond jewellery; stronger settings |
| 14K585 | 58.5% | Lightweight and everyday diamond jewellery |
Lower karat is not “worse”. It is harder and holds stones more securely, but it contains less gold per gram and is priced accordingly.
The BIS hallmark and HUID
| Element | What it is |
|---|---|
| BIS logo | Shows the piece was hallmarked under the BIS scheme |
| Purity mark | Karat and fineness, e.g. 22K916 |
| HUID | Six-character alphanumeric code generated by the BIS system for each article and laser-marked by the assaying and hallmarking centre |
Source: BIS. Mandatory hallmarking began in 256 districts from 23 June 2021, and the second phase extended it to 288 districts from 1 June 2022. Pieces hallmarked before 1 July 2021 carry the older four-mark hallmark (BIS mark, purity, assay centre mark, jeweller mark).
How to verify: open the BIS Care app, choose “Verify HUID” and enter the code from the piece. Check that the article type and purity match what you were sold. If the details do not match, do not complete the purchase.
Solid, plated and gold-tone
| Description | What it means | What to ask |
|---|---|---|
| Solid gold (e.g. 22K, 18K) | The metal is a gold alloy throughout | Hallmark and HUID; net weight |
| Gold-plated / micron gold | A thin gold layer over another metal (often silver or brass) | What is the base metal? How thick is the plating? |
| Gold over sterling silver | Plating on a 925 silver base | Is the silver hallmarked? |
| “Gold-tone” / “gold colour” | Colour only; usually no gold | Treat as fashion jewellery |
| “1 gram gold” jewellery | Usually plated jewellery, not solid gold | Ask for the gold content in writing |
Invoices and making charges
Gold jewellery prices are usually built from:
- Gold value: net gold weight × that day’s rate for the purity.
- Making charges: labour and design, as a percentage of gold value or a fixed amount per gram. This varies widely by design and seller.
- Stones: charged separately. Their weight should be deducted from the gold weight.
- Hallmarking charge (BIS states Rs. 45 per piece for gold jewellery).
- Taxes as applicable.
| Line on a good invoice | Why |
|---|---|
| Gross weight and net gold weight | Stones and enamel are not gold |
| Purity (e.g. 22K916) and HUID | Matches the hallmark |
| Gold rate used | Lets you check the gold value |
| Making charges shown separately | Lets you compare sellers |
| Stone details and any lab report | Stones are priced separately |
| Buy-back / exchange terms | What you get back later |
A worked example: reading an invoice
The numbers below are illustrative only, not current prices. They show how to check a bill line by line.
| Line | Example | Check |
|---|---|---|
| Gross weight | 10.20 g | Weigh the piece if you can |
| Stone weight | 0.40 g | Should be deducted |
| Net gold weight | 9.80 g | Gross minus stones |
| Purity | 22K916 | Matches the hallmark |
| Gold rate (per g, 22K) | ₹X | Compare with the day’s published rate for 22K |
| Gold value | 9.80 × ₹X | Simple multiplication |
| Making charges | e.g. 12% of gold value | Compare between sellers for similar designs |
| Stone value | Separate line | Ask for a report on significant stones |
| Hallmarking | Rs. 45 per piece (BIS charge) | Small fixed amount |
| Taxes | As applicable | Shown separately |
If a seller quotes a single “all-in” price, ask for this breakdown. It is the only way to compare two quotes fairly, because making charges and stone weights are where prices differ most.
Exchange and buy-back
Exchange (trading old gold for new) and buy-back (selling gold back for money) are separate offers, often on different terms:
- Deductions: many sellers deduct a percentage from the gold value on buy-back, and less (or nothing) on exchange. Ask for the figure in writing.
- Hallmark matters: hallmarked pieces with a HUID are easier to value, because the purity is already established.
- Stones and making charges are rarely refunded. Plan on getting back the metal value, not the price you paid.
- Bring the invoice and any certificate. They speed up valuation.
Coloured gold and finishes
- Yellow gold: the natural colour, alloyed mainly with silver and copper.
- Rose gold: more copper in the alloy gives the pink colour.
- White gold: alloyed with white metals and usually rhodium-plated for a bright white surface. The plating can wear and may need renewing every few years on rings.
- Two-tone and textured finishes: decorative. Ask whether different colours are different karats.
The colour does not change the karat. An 18K rose gold piece and an 18K yellow gold piece contain the same proportion of gold.
Gem-set gold jewellery
For diamond or gemstone pieces, the hallmark covers the metal only. Ask for a report on the stones: for example GIA and IGI both issue jewellery reports for mounted pieces (GIA jewelry services; IGI reports). Read our gemstone guide for natural, lab-grown and treated stones.
Buying online versus in a store
| In a store | Online | |
|---|---|---|
| Hallmark check | Read the mark with a loupe and verify the HUID before paying | Ask for the HUID before ordering; verify on delivery |
| Weight | Watch it being weighed | Rely on the stated weight; weigh on delivery if possible |
| Fit and size | Try on | Use the seller’s size guide; check exchange terms for resizing |
| Price comparison | Harder across shops | Easier, but compare like-for-like weight and purity |
| Returns | Usually exchange-based | Often a fixed window, but custom and engraved pieces are excluded |
Online or offline, do not accept a piece whose HUID details do not match the invoice. For high-value orders, keep a video of opening the parcel. It helps if the item arrives damaged or different.
Earrings, chains and children’s jewellery
- Earrings: check the post and the back. Lightweight earrings may use a lower-karat or different-metal post for strength. Ask.
- Chains: compare the weight per length. Hollow chains look larger for the same weight but dent more easily. Check that the clasp is gold and secure.
- Children’s jewellery: choose secure clasps and smooth edges. Small earrings and charms are a choking risk for young children. Hallmark rules apply in the same way.
Care
Gold does not tarnish like silver, but alloys can discolour slightly and softer high-karat pieces scratch and dent. Clean with lukewarm water and mild soap and a soft brush. Remove rings for heavy manual work. Have prongs on gem-set pieces checked periodically. Store pieces separately so harder stones do not scratch softer gold.
Buying checklist
- Purity mark and HUID on the piece. Verify the HUID in BIS Care.
- Net gold weight separate from stone weight.
- Gold rate and making charges shown separately.
- For gem-set pieces, a report on the stones.
- Written buy-back and exchange terms.
- Return window and condition requirements.
Ordering custom gold jewellery
Custom work, such as a ring made around a family stone or a redesigned heirloom, needs more agreement up front than buying from stock:
- Karat and colour (for example 18K yellow) and confirmation that the finished piece will be BIS-hallmarked with a HUID.
- Estimated net gold weight, with a tolerance. Final weight can differ from the design estimate.
- Price basis: gold rate on which date (booking or delivery), making charges, and stone setting charges.
- Old gold: if you supply it, ask how it will be tested and valued, and what deduction applies.
- Your stones: the setter should note their condition on receipt. Fragile or fracture-filled stones carry a risk during setting.
- CAD or sketch approval before casting, and a photo before dispatch.
- Delivery date and return terms. Custom pieces are usually non-returnable.
Comparing jewellers
Compare sellers on the same evidence rather than on advertising:
| Criterion | What good looks like | How to check |
|---|---|---|
| Hallmark | Every piece carries the BIS logo, purity mark and a HUID | Verify the HUID in BIS Care |
| Invoice transparency | Net gold weight, gold rate, making charges and stone value shown separately | Ask for a sample invoice before buying |
| Stone documentation | A report for significant diamonds or gemstones | Verify the report number on the laboratory’s own website |
| Exchange and buy-back | Written terms that state any deductions | Read the policy, not just the banner |
| Returns | A stated return window and conditions | Check whether custom or engraved pieces are excluded |
| Service | Resizing, repairs and a reachable contact | Ask before buying |
Large online jewellers such as CaratLane (“A TATA Product”) publish 22K, 18K and 14K collections, a 15-day return window and a gold exchange programme on their sites (caratlane.com). Read the full terms, and verify the HUID on the specific piece, whichever seller you choose.
FAQ
Is 22K better than 18K? It contains more gold and is softer. 18K is often preferred for gem-set pieces because it holds stones more securely.
Can a piece be hallmarked without a HUID? Pieces hallmarked before 1 July 2021 carry the older four-mark hallmark. For new pieces, ask for the HUID.
Does the hallmark cover the diamonds? No, only the metal.
What are making charges? The labour and design cost added to the gold value. Compare them separately.
Sources
- Bureau of Indian Standards — Hallmarking of gold jewellery and gold artefacts, accessed 9 Oct 2026.
- GIA — Jewelry services; IGI — Reports. Accessed 9 Oct 2026.
- CaratLane — homepage statements, accessed 9 Oct 2026.
Next steps
Browse Gold Jewellery articles, compare silver hallmarking, or email us with a question about an invoice.