The short answer
- Colour comes from the alloy, not the purity. 18K yellow, 18K white and 18K rose gold all contain 75% gold. The other 25% decides the colour.
- Rose gold has more copper: one 18K rose formula is 75% gold, 22.25% copper and 2.75% silver. White gold uses a white metal such as nickel, palladium, silver or platinum.
- Most white gold is rhodium-plated for a bright white finish, and that thin layer wears away with use. Expect periodic re-plating.
- Coloured golds are usually 18K, 14K or lower. In India, 22K jewellery is almost always yellow.
- Skin reactions to gold jewellery are most often caused by nickel in some white golds and lower-karat alloys, not by the gold itself. If you are sensitive, ask for nickel-free (for example palladium) white gold, or choose a higher-karat yellow gold.
- The BIS hallmark shows purity (for example 18K750), not colour or alloy. Gold hallmark grades now run from 9K (375) to 24K, 9K having been added in 2025.
Why gold comes in colours
Pure gold is yellow and soft. Jewellery gold is an alloy, and the metals added change both colour and hardness. Wikipedia’s summary of coloured gold puts it this way:
- “White gold is an alloy of gold and at least one white metal (usually nickel, silver, platinum or palladium).”
- Rose shades depend on copper: “Pink gold uses the least copper, followed by rose gold, with red gold having the highest copper content”. Examples are 18K rose gold: 75% gold, 22.25% copper, 2.75% silver, and 18K red gold: 75% gold, 25% copper.
- Coloured golds are “commonly 18K (75%), 14K (58.3%), 10K (41.7%), or 9K (37.5%)”.
The more alloy you need to shift the colour, the lower the karat has to be. That is why 22K (91.6%) jewellery is almost always yellow: with only 8.4% of other metals, there is little room to change the colour. See our karat guide for the fineness numbers.
The three side by side
| Yellow gold | White gold | Rose gold | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Alloy metals (typical) | Silver and copper | Nickel, palladium, silver or platinum | Copper, a little silver |
| Usual karats in India | 22K, 18K, 14K | 18K, 14K | 18K, 14K |
| Surface finish | Natural colour | Usually rhodium-plated | Natural colour |
| Maintenance | Polishing | Periodic rhodium re-plating | Polishing |
| Nickel risk | Low in high karats; check low-karat alloys | Depends on the alloy: nickel or palladium | Low (copper-based) |
| Look with diamonds | Warm | Bright white, the classic diamond setting | Warm pink |
| Hallmark | Purity only, for example 18K750 | Same | Same |
White gold and rhodium plating
Most white gold alloys are not perfectly white; many have a faint yellow or grey tint. Jewellers therefore plate them with rhodium, a bright white platinum-group metal. “White gold is often plated with a thin rhodium layer to improve its appearance”. The plating gives a reflective white surface at sale, “after which the thin layer wears away with use” (Wikipedia, Rhodium).
What this means for you:
- The colour you buy is the plating’s colour. Over months or years, especially on ring shanks and bracelet undersides, the underlying alloy shows through.
- Re-plating is routine maintenance. Ask the jeweller what it costs and whether it is free for an initial period.
- Plating is not a skin barrier for life. If the alloy contains nickel, the plating delays contact only until it wears through.
- Resale and exchange: the plating has negligible metal value. Exchange is based on the gold content of the alloy (see selling or exchanging old gold).
Is white gold “real gold”?
Yes. 18K white gold is 75% gold, exactly like 18K yellow gold. It is not gold-plated silver, and its BIS hallmark states its purity in the same way. “White gold vs platinum” is a different comparison: platinum is a different precious metal, not a colour of gold.
Rose gold
Rose gold’s colour comes from copper. The more copper, the redder the shade (Wikipedia). Practical points:
- It is not plated for colour. The colour runs through the metal, so scratches do not reveal a different colour.
- Surface changes are cosmetic. Any dulling from skin oils, cosmetics or tarnish on the alloy can be polished off by a jeweller.
- If you know you react to copper, tell the jeweller. Rose gold contains more copper than yellow gold of the same karat.
Rose gold vs copper
Rose gold is a gold alloy; copper is a base metal. Some inexpensive “rose gold” items are rose-coloured plating over brass or steel. Check for a BIS hallmark with a gold purity grade. Our plated vs solid gold guide explains the difference.
Durability
Durability depends more on karat, design and thickness than on colour:
- 18K of any colour is harder than 22K and holds stones better; see gold settings for gemstones.
- White gold’s rhodium is hard but thin, so it wears away; the alloy beneath is what lasts.
- Rose golds: Wikipedia notes a report that an 18.1K pink gold is the hardest gold–silver–copper alloy, though the claim is marked as needing a citation. Treat it as indicative only.
For daily-wear rings and bangles, choose by karat and construction first, colour second.
Skin sensitivity
Nickel is one of the metals that commonly cause allergic contact dermatitis, an itchy rash where the metal touches the skin (NHS). Jewellery is a frequent source. The dermatology reference DermNet notes that “nine-carat gold and white gold contain nickel”, while solid gold of 12 carat or more should generally be safe (DermNet, Nickel allergy). Not every white gold contains nickel: palladium-based white golds do not, which is why the alloy matters.
What to ask for if your skin reacts:
- Is the white gold nickel-based or palladium-based? Ask for it to be written on the invoice.
- What karat? Higher karat means less alloy. 22K yellow gold contains far less non-gold metal than 14K white gold.
- Are the earring posts and clasps the same alloy? Findings are sometimes different metals.
- Plating: if a piece is plated, the plating will eventually wear through.
If you develop a rash, consult a doctor. A dermatologist can patch-test to identify the metal responsible.
Price: does colour change it?
Gold value depends on net weight × purity rate, whatever the colour. An 18K white ring and an 18K yellow ring of the same net weight contain the same gold.
What does change:
- Making charges: white gold often includes rhodium plating; complex rose or two-tone designs can cost more to make.
- Alloy metals: palladium, used in some nickel-free white golds, is itself a precious metal and can add cost.
- Karat availability: if a design is offered in 22K yellow but only 18K white, compare the gold value per gram of net weight, not the totals.
Worked example. Illustrative round 22K rate ₹10,000/g; 18K rate = 10,000 × 75/91.6 = ₹8,188/g. (The actual IBJA rate for 916 gold on 9 October 2026 was ₹1,37,046 per 10 g, about ₹13,705/g; the comparison scales in proportion.) The ₹75 is the BIS fee per gold article that jewellers pay the hallmarking centre (BIS (Hallmarking) Amendment Regulations, 2026); some bills show it, others include it in the price.
| 22K yellow ring | 18K white ring | |
|---|---|---|
| Net weight | 4.000 g | 4.000 g |
| Gold value | ₹40,000 | ₹32,752 |
| Making (illustrative) | 12% = ₹4,800 | 15% = ₹4,913, plating included |
| Hallmarking (if shown separately) | ₹75 | ₹75 |
| Taxable value | ₹44,875 | ₹37,740 |
| GST 3% | ₹1,346.25 | ₹1,132.20 |
| Total | ₹46,221.25 | ₹38,872.20 |
The 18K white ring costs less because it contains less gold (3.0 g of fine gold against 3.66 g). On exchange it is valued on that lower gold content too. Our gold bill guide explains each line.
Choosing
- Daily-wear Indian jewellery, value retention: 22K yellow.
- Diamond and gemstone settings, modern designs: 18K white or yellow. 18K holds stones better than 22K.
- Warm, contemporary colour: 18K rose.
- Sensitive skin: high-karat yellow, or palladium white gold. Avoid unknown nickel-containing alloys.
- Low maintenance: yellow or rose. White gold needs periodic re-plating.
FAQ
Is white gold real gold?
Yes. 18K white gold is 75% gold, alloyed with white metals and usually rhodium-plated. Its hallmark states its purity like any other gold.
Does white gold turn yellow?
The rhodium plating wears away with use, and the slightly yellowish or greyish alloy beneath can show. Re-plating restores the white finish.
Is rose gold weaker than yellow gold?
Not inherently. Strength depends mainly on karat, thickness and construction.
Why can’t I find 22K white gold?
Making gold white requires a large share of white alloy metals. At 22K, only 8.4% of the metal is non-gold, which is not enough to make it white. Coloured golds are commonly 18K or lower.
Can gold jewellery cause an allergy?
Reactions are most often to nickel in some white and low-karat golds. Choose high-karat yellow or nickel-free white gold, and see a doctor if a rash appears.
Does the hallmark tell me the colour or alloy?
No. The BIS hallmark gives purity, for example 22K916 or 18K750, plus the HUID. Ask for the alloy (especially nickel content) in writing.
Sources
- Wikipedia: Colored gold (alloy compositions; usual karats), Rhodium (rhodium plating of white gold), checked 11 October 2026.
- Bureau of Indian Standards: Hallmarking FAQs (gold grades under IS 1417:2016; the FAQ predates the 2025 addition of 9K), checked 11 October 2026.
- Bureau of Indian Standards: BIS (Hallmarking) Amendment Regulations, 2026, Gazette of India, 14 September 2026 (₹75 per gold article, minimum ₹200 per consignment, plus taxes), checked 11 October 2026.
- Business Standard: Hallmarking for 9 carat gold gets green light (9K at 375 fineness added in 2025), checked 11 October 2026.
- DermNet: Nickel allergy, and NHS: Contact dermatitis, checked 11 October 2026.
- India Bullion and Jewellers Association: published rates (rates exclude 3% GST and making charges), checked 11 October 2026.
