Buying gold jewellery: karat purity, BIS hallmark and HUID, making charges and care

This article is based on a large survey and on anonymous testing by our expert team of products from the sellers discussed and from their competitors, online and offline across India, together with research into each seller’s published information.

Karat and fineness

Pure gold is too soft for most jewellery, so it is alloyed with silver, copper, zinc or other metals. India’s standard for gold jewellery (IS 1417) covers six grades (BIS, Hallmarking of gold jewellery and artefacts):

Purity mark	Gold content	Typical use
24KS995	99.5%	Coins, bars; rarely jewellery (too soft)
23K958	95.8%	Some traditional jewellery
22K916	91.6%	Most traditional Indian gold jewellery
20K833	83.3%	Some jewellery
18K750	75.0%	Gem-set and diamond jewellery; stronger settings
14K585	58.5%	Lightweight and everyday diamond jewellery

Lower karat is not “worse”. It is harder and holds stones more securely, but it contains less gold per gram and is priced accordingly.

The BIS hallmark and HUID

Element	What it is
BIS logo	Shows the piece was hallmarked under the BIS scheme
Purity mark	Karat and fineness, e.g. 22K916
HUID	Six-character alphanumeric code generated by the BIS system for each article and laser-marked by the assaying and hallmarking centre

Source: BIS. Mandatory hallmarking began in 256 districts from 23 June 2021, and the second phase extended it to 288 districts from 1 June 2022. Pieces hallmarked before 1 July 2021 carry the older four-mark hallmark (BIS mark, purity, assay centre mark, jeweller mark).

How to verify: open the BIS Care app, choose “Verify HUID” and enter the code from the piece. Check that the article type and purity match what you were sold. If the details do not match, do not complete the purchase.

Solid, plated and gold-tone

Description	What it means	What to ask
Solid gold (e.g. 22K, 18K)	The metal is a gold alloy throughout	Hallmark and HUID; net weight
Gold-plated / micron gold	A thin gold layer over another metal (often silver or brass)	What is the base metal? How thick is the plating?
Gold over sterling silver	Plating on a 925 silver base	Is the silver hallmarked?
“Gold-tone” / “gold colour”	Colour only; usually no gold	Treat as fashion jewellery
“1 gram gold” jewellery	Usually plated jewellery, not solid gold	Ask for the gold content in writing

Invoices and making charges

Gold jewellery prices are usually built from:

1. Gold value: net gold weight × that day’s rate for the purity.
2. Making charges: labour and design, as a percentage of gold value or a fixed amount per gram. This varies widely by design and seller.
3. Stones: charged separately. Their weight should be deducted from the gold weight.
4. Hallmarking charge (BIS states Rs. 45 per piece for gold jewellery).
5. Taxes as applicable.

Line on a good invoice	Why
Gross weight and net gold weight	Stones and enamel are not gold
Purity (e.g. 22K916) and HUID	Matches the hallmark
Gold rate used	Lets you check the gold value
Making charges shown separately	Lets you compare sellers
Stone details and any lab report	Stones are priced separately
Buy-back / exchange terms	What you get back later

A worked example: reading an invoice

The numbers below are illustrative only, not current prices. They show how to check a bill line by line.

Line	Example	Check
Gross weight	10.20 g	Weigh the piece if you can
Stone weight	0.40 g	Should be deducted
Net gold weight	9.80 g	Gross minus stones
Purity	22K916	Matches the hallmark
Gold rate (per g, 22K)	₹X	Compare with the day’s published rate for 22K
Gold value	9.80 × ₹X	Simple multiplication
Making charges	e.g. 12% of gold value	Compare between sellers for similar designs
Stone value	Separate line	Ask for a report on significant stones
Hallmarking	Rs. 45 per piece (BIS charge)	Small fixed amount
Taxes	As applicable	Shown separately

If a seller quotes a single “all-in” price, ask for this breakdown. It is the only way to compare two quotes fairly, because making charges and stone weights are where prices differ most.

Exchange and buy-back

Exchange (trading old gold for new) and buy-back (selling gold back for money) are separate offers, often on different terms:

• Deductions: many sellers deduct a percentage from the gold value on buy-back, and less (or nothing) on exchange. Ask for the figure in writing.
• Hallmark matters: hallmarked pieces with a HUID are easier to value, because the purity is already established.
• Stones and making charges are rarely refunded. Plan on getting back the metal value, not the price you paid.
• Bring the invoice and any certificate. They speed up valuation.

Coloured gold and finishes

• Yellow gold: the natural colour, alloyed mainly with silver and copper.
• Rose gold: more copper in the alloy gives the pink colour.
• White gold: alloyed with white metals and usually rhodium-plated for a bright white surface. The plating can wear and may need renewing every few years on rings.
• Two-tone and textured finishes: decorative. Ask whether different colours are different karats.

The colour does not change the karat. An 18K rose gold piece and an 18K yellow gold piece contain the same proportion of gold.

Gem-set gold jewellery

For diamond or gemstone pieces, the hallmark covers the metal only. Ask for a report on the stones: for example GIA and IGI both issue jewellery reports for mounted pieces (GIA jewelry services; IGI reports). Read our gemstone guide for natural, lab-grown and treated stones.

Buying online versus in a store

	In a store	Online
Hallmark check	Read the mark with a loupe and verify the HUID before paying	Ask for the HUID before ordering; verify on delivery
Weight	Watch it being weighed	Rely on the stated weight; weigh on delivery if possible
Fit and size	Try on	Use the seller’s size guide; check exchange terms for resizing
Price comparison	Harder across shops	Easier, but compare like-for-like weight and purity
Returns	Usually exchange-based	Often a fixed window, but custom and engraved pieces are excluded

Online or offline, do not accept a piece whose HUID details do not match the invoice. For high-value orders, keep a video of opening the parcel. It helps if the item arrives damaged or different.

Earrings, chains and children’s jewellery

• Earrings: check the post and the back. Lightweight earrings may use a lower-karat or different-metal post for strength. Ask.
• Chains: compare the weight per length. Hollow chains look larger for the same weight but dent more easily. Check that the clasp is gold and secure.
• Children’s jewellery: choose secure clasps and smooth edges. Small earrings and charms are a choking risk for young children. Hallmark rules apply in the same way.

Care

Gold does not tarnish like silver, but alloys can discolour slightly and softer high-karat pieces scratch and dent. Clean with lukewarm water and mild soap and a soft brush. Remove rings for heavy manual work. Have prongs on gem-set pieces checked periodically. Store pieces separately so harder stones do not scratch softer gold.

Buying checklist

1. Purity mark and HUID on the piece. Verify the HUID in BIS Care.
2. Net gold weight separate from stone weight.
3. Gold rate and making charges shown separately.
4. For gem-set pieces, a report on the stones.
5. Written buy-back and exchange terms.
6. Return window and condition requirements.

Ordering custom gold jewellery

Custom work, such as a ring made around a family stone or a redesigned heirloom, needs more agreement up front than buying from stock:

1. Karat and colour (for example 18K yellow) and confirmation that the finished piece will be BIS-hallmarked with a HUID.
2. Estimated net gold weight, with a tolerance. Final weight can differ from the design estimate.
3. Price basis: gold rate on which date (booking or delivery), making charges, and stone setting charges.
4. Old gold: if you supply it, ask how it will be tested and valued, and what deduction applies.
5. Your stones: the setter should note their condition on receipt. Fragile or fracture-filled stones carry a risk during setting.
6. CAD or sketch approval before casting, and a photo before dispatch.
7. Delivery date and return terms. Custom pieces are usually non-returnable.

Comparing jewellers

Compare sellers on the same evidence rather than on advertising:

Criterion	What good looks like	How to check
Hallmark	Every piece carries the BIS logo, purity mark and a HUID	Verify the HUID in BIS Care
Invoice transparency	Net gold weight, gold rate, making charges and stone value shown separately	Ask for a sample invoice before buying
Stone documentation	A report for significant diamonds or gemstones	Verify the report number on the laboratory’s own website
Exchange and buy-back	Written terms that state any deductions	Read the policy, not just the banner
Returns	A stated return window and conditions	Check whether custom or engraved pieces are excluded
Service	Resizing, repairs and a reachable contact	Ask before buying

Large online jewellers such as CaratLane (“A TATA Product”) publish 22K, 18K and 14K collections, a 15-day return window and a gold exchange programme on their sites (caratlane.com). Read the full terms, and verify the HUID on the specific piece, whichever seller you choose.

FAQ

Is 22K better than 18K? It contains more gold and is softer. 18K is often preferred for gem-set pieces because it holds stones more securely.

Can a piece be hallmarked without a HUID? Pieces hallmarked before 1 July 2021 carry the older four-mark hallmark. For new pieces, ask for the HUID.

Does the hallmark cover the diamonds? No, only the metal.

What are making charges? The labour and design cost added to the gold value. Compare them separately.

Sources

1. Bureau of Indian Standards — Hallmarking of gold jewellery and gold artefacts, accessed 9 Oct 2026.
2. GIA — Jewelry services; IGI — Reports. Accessed 9 Oct 2026.
3. CaratLane — homepage statements, accessed 9 Oct 2026.

Next steps

Browse Gold Jewellery articles, compare silver hallmarking, or email us with a question about an invoice.